Replica Tudor Watches

High precision chronographs have always been linked to the world of motorsport.  An industry-savy Jack W. Heuer was one of the first to recognise this and by offering his company’s services as official timekeeper at various motorsport events and forming fruitful relationships with some of the most prestigious motorsport teams and drivers perhaps ensured the viability of his brand.  In recent years the watch industry have responded to the demand for vintage-inspired sports chronographs, particularly those with motorsport themes with a growing collection of re-releases  so to “get the look” no longer requires auction hunting unless,  of course, rarity is required.Tudor Heritage ChronoThe Tudor Heritage Chrono is a new release which pays tribute to the 1970′s Tudor Chronograph Oysterdate.  The satin and polished steel case, at 42mm is slightly larger than the original and the bidirectional rotatable bezel, milled crown and pushpieces and the 3D applique hour markers add to the overall robust styling.  Flashes of orange against the black and grey combination dial are particularly appealing especially when complimented by the orange and black fabric strap, although a stainless steel bracelet version is also available.  The piece is powered by the  Valjoux 7734 self-winding  movement and is water resistant to 150 metres.Tudor Heritage Chrono on strapThe Tudor Heritage Chrono is the most recent addition to a new portfolio of watches which has relaunced the brand and widened its appeal to a new client base…… and the motorsport connection?   In 2009 Tudor became  “Timing Partner” of Porsche Motorsport with engagements in the Porsche international one-make cups.Popularity: 10% [?]

Chronoswiss add a new piece to their Timemaster collection – the Chronoswiss Timemaster Chronograph GMT.There are two versions of the piece, stainless steel or stainless steel with a DLC coating.  DLC is diamond-like coating, rumour has it that the Russian military used the process of DLC on their helecopter blades for its extreme resistance to abrasion although how this little nugget of information became public knowledge is anyone’s guess.  Anyway, it is true to say that DLC provides the ultimate in durability compared to normal stainless steel or PVD coated steel, if you’ve ever worn a watch with a highly polished stainless steel bezel then unless you kept it under your cuff you’ll know how quickly they pick up scratches.The Chronoswiss Timemaster Chronograph GMT DLCThe DLC version looks superb with its decidedly monochrome theme, the GMT hand is a stand-out red colour matched by the date indication at 6 o’clock  and even the huge onion crown manages to have stealth-like quality.  Also available is a stainless steel version with a black dial which is the perfect backdrop for that vivacious GMT hand.[?]|||No Comment Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda HemispheresPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 26th 2010Parmigiani add to their portfolio the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hemispheres watch.The latest piece in the Tonda Hemispheres series features the usual dual timezone complication, however in this case the second timezone can be set to the minute which is unusual because normally only the hour hand of the second timezone can be adjusted with the minute hand remaining in the main timezone.The dial is partly skeletonised and as you would expect from this brand the finish is exquisite including the Côtes de Genève on the inner circle of the dial.[?]|||No Comment The Hamilton Time Player WatchPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 24th 2010Hamilton present a new unconventional piece – the Hamilton Time Player.It’s always refreshing to take a look at something a bit quirky and avant-garde and the latest piece by Hamilton certainly falls into this category.  Taking influences from the lines of longitude and latitude the piece forms a large nine square composition a bit like a tic-tac-toe grid.  Eight of the nine squares have movable counters, four of which have time displays with the other four having the corresponding name of the location of each of these timezones printed on them.  Each of the locations Dubai, New York and Tokyo are printed in colours which match that of their time displays which avoids confusion and enlivens the huge dial.  The time of the wearer’s current location is displayed with the Hamilton logo alongside. The Hamilton Time PlayTo set the time in a timezone, move the dial which corresponds to that location to the square in the centre and adjust using the crown.  You may remember those sliding picture puzzles from your childhood, well this piece is the perfect antidote to any bad memories of those cheaply made objects of frustration – all of the counters can be moved and jumbled up at will, possibly the ultimate stress-buster?The Hamilton Time Player is constructed from titanium and comes presented on a black rubber strap.  The watchcase measures a massive 48mm by 42mm so don’t wear it with your best shirt – this is sure to be a cuff-shredder.Popularity: 5% [?]|||No Comment Rebellion REB-7 Manufacture Regulateur BluePosted byJohnny McElherroninMay 24th 2010One of my own personal favourite discoveries this year has been the Rebellion watch company, a young watchmakers based in Lonay on the shores of Lake Geneva.Rebellion have entered the fiercely competitive high-end watch market but their watches are, to say the very least, distinctive and stand-out pieces and as with their . Recently launched, the new Rebellion REB-7 Manufacture Regulateur Bleu is no variation from that rule – it’s a huge 46mm x 56.7mm and 19mm in height and is manufactures in a hefty stainless steel (or red gold) sandwich modular composition case on a natural rubber strap with folding clasp. Rebellion REB-7 Manufacture Regulateur BleuThe REB-7 is a regulateur and showcases the company’s capacity for designing and creating in-house their own haute horology movements. I do like the regulateur anyway, but with the use of oxidised blue steel hands and indices, set against the galvanic black gold detail of the date ring and indeed the actual plates of the movement which can be seen through the skeletonised dial, this piece really has a funky cool presence.I like the detail such as the signature screw fasteners and the beveled sapphire crystal, which as can be seen from the enlarged image above, distorts the view of the dial when looked at from the 12 or 6 o’clock positions. I also love how they get across their brand image with the logo incorporated as the overhang on the seconds hand.Technical spec courtesy of Rebellion Timepieces.CASE: Modular sandwich constructionMaterials available in red gold and stainless steelSapphire crystals compound curves, bevelled edges, anti-reflection coating both faces, display backDimensions 46 mm x 56.7 mm x 19.6 mmNumber of components 45Water resistance 100 mMOVEMENT: REB-7, automatic winding regulator manufacture movementPower reserve 42 hoursBalance frequency 28'800 A/h (4Hz)Number of jewels 23Dimensions diameter 30 mm x 6 mmFinishing galvanic black gold plates, back gold date ring, gold plated wheelsMovements verified by in-house state-of-the-art testing laboratoryNatural rubber straps with double folding buckle matching case metalPopularity: 5% [?]|||No Comment Hublot Classic Fusion FIFA World Cup WatchPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 24th 2010Hublot present the Official Watch for the upcoming World Cup tournament – the Hublot Classic Fusion FIFA World Cup Watch.With a watchcase, dial and bezel crafted from pink gold, the 45mm piece is a celebratory tribute to the FIFA World Cup Trophy which is sculpted from 5kg of 18 carat solid gold. A mini version of the prestigious trophy appears on the satin finished dial of this Classic Fusion and is also engraved onto the back of the watchcase. Hublot Classic Fusion FIFA World CupThe Classic Fusion FIFA World Cup watch is an exclusive piece, limited to just 100 pieces but with the Hublot brand set to be Official Timekeeper for the  2010 and 2014 FIFA World Cup tournaments, it is surely only a taster of further releases to come.  Having stolen a march on his rivals by clinching the deal to become the first Official Timekeeper in the history of the World Cup it would be *** to presume that global marketing expert  Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot would waste this golden opportunity.Popularity: 5% [?]|||No Comment Graham Chronofighter Oversize Tourist Trophy Bi-Compax ChronographPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 20th 2010Graham celebrate their continued partnership with the Isle of Man TT races with a new release -The Chronofighter Oversize Tourist Trophy Bi-compax chronograph. George Graham is said to be the inventor of the chronograph, so it is pehaps appropriate that the Graham brand which was revived by The British Masters SA should feature a portfolio rich with chronograph timers.The trademark of the Oversize collection is a trigger-style thumb lever mechanism positioned on the left side of the case which adds to the overall robust design and is presumably usable even when wearing racing gloves etc.  The TT Bi-compax chronograph features a re-worked dial following on from last year’s model, the Manx Triskelion serves as a sweep seconds on a sub-dial at the three o’clock position and the 30-minute counter in the form of a 30 mph road speed limit sign is a symbolic thumbed nose at the usual speed restrictions you would expect to obey when travelling through idyllic sleepy Manx villages.The Chronofighter Oversize Tourist Trophy Bi-compax ChronographThis TT Bi- compax chronograph is powered by the Calibre G1734 automatic movement and the race winner of each event of the 2010 TT which runs from 29th May to 11th June will receive one of these special edition pieces.Motorcycle road racing provides a unique spine-tingling spectacle. There is only so much you can do to modify an entire island for an event such as the TT so there is an obvious compromise in safety, after all you cannot remove buildings and stone walls so run-off areas are almost non-existent – if you have an accident here chances are it’s going to be a big one.  A friend of mine escaped serious injury at the event a few years ago, the cause?… well like most riders he used natural features of the landscape to gauge braking distances into the corners, every lap he used a landmark in this case a stone to know where he’d have to brake into a particularly nasty bend…… except that this “stone” turned out to be a hedgehog awoken from his slumber by the noise and shuffling slowly on his way towards the corner in question.Road racers may appear to be a headstrong mix of recklessness and bravery, however I guarantee that after you’ve been a spectator at an event like the TT, you won’t analyse it too much, you’ll be hooked.The Graham The Chronofighter Oversize Tourist Trophy Bi-compax chronograph will be a limited release of 211 pieces.Popularity: 7% [?]|||No Comment Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Steel and TitaniumPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 19th 2010Vacheron Constantin present a new piece – the Overseas Dual Time Steel and Titanium.Vacheron Constantin are the oldest continuous manufacturer of watches in the world, although in recent years its classically refined portfolio has been revised to include the more contemporary sporty Overseas collection first introduced in 1998. The latest addition uses both steel and titanium in its construction and is fairly monochrome in appearance, those with more traditional tastes would perhaps prefer one of the older models in rose gold with white dial.The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Steel and TitaniumThe piece displays hours, minutes, sweep seconds, date, second time zone subdial at 6 o’clock, day/night indication and power reserve display, all packed into the slate grey dial which is well designed therefore highly legible.   This dark beauty also has secret powers, its  Calibre 1222 VC automatic movement has a precision booster in the form of a soft iron core magnetic field protector.Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Steel and Titanium comes presented with a choice of grey leather or black rubber straps.Popularity: 6% [?]|||No Comment Tudor Watch Company – a history and timelinePosted byJohnny McElherroninMay 19th 2010I was recently impressed with how Tudor watches had upped their game with a plethora of new and very interesting pieces over the last couple of years such as the Hydronaut, GranTour and the Glamour collections. Rightly or wrongly, I had somehow been raised with the perception of a brand designed to stand in the shadow of it’s blue-blooded sibling and so, on doing a little deeper research into the brand to refresh my thinking, I came across this 2010 brand history from Tudor themselves.Now, quite often the official blurb from the watch manufacturers is so laden with sickly-sweet self-awarded superlatives that it does require dismantling and diluting with a  touch of realism before it is fit for consumption by the reader, but I actually thought that the following document was both informative and not too fawningly  OTT so that I could reproduce it here without editing.It is my intention to return to the brand shortly to review some of these new pieces, but for now, a little history lesson.I. FROM TECHNOLOGY TO STYLE"For some years now I have been considering the idea of *** a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standards of dependability for which Rolex is famous. I decided to form a separate company, with the object of *** and marketing this new watch. It is called the Tudor Watch Company."This announcement was made on 6 March 1946 by Hans Wilsdorf who, having created Rolex in the first decade of the 20th century, was already a leading figure in the upmarket Swiss watch*** world. It marked the birth of both the TUDOR brand and its production and communications strategy.Hans Wilsdorf's intuition was as *** as it was ingenious. At that time, the development of wristwatches was in full swing and today's widespread drive to optimize resources, which is currently behind so many major financial and brand mergers, was still in the far-distant future. The public was ready to recognize and appreciate a product whose technical, aesthetic and functional qualities, as well as its distribution, were guaranteed not by a newcomer on the market but by the Rolex brand, which had already earned worldwide renown for the high quality of its timepieces.This announcement was not merely words said for effect. It was Wilsdorf's genuine commitment to a programme. Between 1947 and 1952, therefore, TUDOR devoted itself to launching first the TUDOR Oyster model, followed by the TUDOR Oyster Prince collection, reflecting the successful marriage of precision and reliability, style and technique and high-quality production. That period also saw the emergence of the first advertisements devoted exclusively to TUDOR, in which Wilsdorf expressed pride and satisfaction regarding his personal involvement in creating this new brand.This certainly was a privileged and auspicious start for the TUDOR brand, originally represented by a decorative rose, the famous symbol of a once long-reigning dynasty in England, the Tudors, who inspired Hans Wilsdorf to give their name to his new company. This famous name, however, never led the company to rest on its laurels. From the very beginning, this was a story of technical developments, like the waterproof Oyster case and the adoption of a self-winding movement, which were not relegated to mere functionality, but turned into stylish features of watches designed in both performance and appearance for modern, dynamic men.With Rolex to usher it into the world and accompany its first steps, the TUDOR brand very quickly carved out a niche for itself, quite independently of the brand with the five-prong crown.If we look closely, early traces of TUDOR and its creations can be found as far back as 1926, the year the brand was registered by the Swiss watch*** company "Veuve de Philippe Hüther" on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf. In 1936, Wilsdorf took it over himself, and went on to found the company Montres Tudor SA in 1946. It was, however, the products and advertising campaigns of the 1950s that really gave the brand its definitive strength and distinctive personality.The year 1952, in particular, saw the launch of the TUDOR Oyster Prince, accompanied by a press campaign that was very intense, strong and original for the period. The advertisements not only showed and described the watches, as was customary at the time, they also underlined the qualities of resistance, reliability and precision, with both detailed text and illustrations. These illustrations depicted men at work wearing a TUDOR in extreme conditions, doing strenuous work on a road or in a mine, for instance, and not strictly in sports settings, such as motorcycling, playing golf or riding horses, which were also effective test situations but far more conventional.The images, together with the, by then, widely recognized soundness of the product, helped give TUDOR watches a style and personality associated with concepts of modernity and reliability, and launched it well beyond the particular context in which it was being shown.It is significant that 30 TUDOR Oyster Prince watches were included in the British scientific expedition to Greenland organized by the Royal Navy in 1952. In the wake of its technological triumphs and the success of its image, brought about by its participation in the Polar explorations, the TUDOR brand in the 1960s became involved in a project to develop a professional underwater watch that could become a piece of official military equipment. A TUDOR Prince Submariner was produced for the US Navy from 1964 to 1966, followed in the early 1970s (and until 1984) by the "Marine Nationale" model, which was officially adopted by the French Navy.And so for TUDOR began the era of stylish watches of a more technical design, inspired by professions regarded as dangerous. They were therefore endowed with particular functional features – for example, divers' models with date or chronograph function – and a style that radiated strength, security and reliability. The people selected for the TUDOR Prince Submariner and TUDOR Prince Date-Day advertising campaign at the time were not well-known personalities, which made it easier for the public to identify with them. They included rescue divers, mining engineers or rally drivers whose full names were given, and who were photographed with their equipment, conveying perfect mastery of their professions.In 1970 a model was introduced that stood out for its style and technology: the TUDOR Oysterdate Chronograph.The spirit of this timepiece foreshadowed TUDOR's present collaboration with Porsche Motorsport as its "Timing Partner". This role is reflected in the Grantour collection, shown for the first time at Baselworld 2009, the year that saw a complete rethinking of the TUDOR brand, resulting in the new series of watches and the advertising campaign: "Designed for Performance. Engineered for Elegance." TUDOR's communication has evolved since the advertising campaigns of the 1980s featuring distinctive details from knightly armour to communicate resistance, also achieved in the change of logo from rose to shield. This repositioning of the brand, yet again emphasizing the marriage of performance and style, continues to be evident in the new designs for 2010.II. THE EVOLUTION OF THE LOGOFor obvious, image-related reasons, great importance has always been accorded to the logo that generally appears with the brand name on a watch dial. TUDOR is no exception to this rule. Indeed, it has paid particular attention to its own logo, adapting it over the years in response to specific communication needs.The very first watches produced in the 1920s and 1930s simply bore the name TUDOR, as a kind of birth certificate. A few rare models associated the name TUDOR with Rolex, corresponding to the fact that Rolex originally guaranteed the technical and aesthetic quality of TUDOR, which the brand later went on to develop autonomously.It was around 1936 that a graphic symbol first appeared, the delicate TUDOR rose, emblem of the long-reigning English dynasty to which the brand owes its name. The rose was shown on a shield, as if to symbolize the invincible union of strength and beauty.In 1947, just a year after TUDOR was officially launched, the brand name on the dial was accompanied by the rose alone, highlighting TUDOR's consummate elegance and style. Between 1969 and the present day, as the requirements of classical aesthetics were definitively met and TUDOR production focused increasingly on technical aspects, the rose disappeared from the shield, which remained on the dial in pride of place, a powerful symbol of resistance and reliability.BRIEF CHRONOLOGY1926 – "The Tudor" brand was registered by the Swiss watch*** company "Veuve de Philippe Hüther" on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf1936 – Hans Wilsdorf himself took over "The Tudor" brand1946 – the company "Montres Tudor SA" was established in Geneva on 6 March1947 – launch of the TUDOR Oyster model1948 – first exclusively TUDOR advertising campaign1952 – launch of the TUDOR Oyster Prince collection1957 – launch of the TUDOR Advisor model1964 – production (for two years only) of a TUDOR Prince Submariner for the US Navy1969 – launch of the TUDOR Prince Submariner and TUDOR Prince Date-Day models1970 – launch of the TUDOR Oysterdate Chronograph1971 to 1977 – TUDOR Oysterdate Chronograph1977 to 1996 – TUDOR Oysterdate Chronograph (Automatic-Chrono Time)1991 – launch of the TUDOR Monarch collection1996 to 2006 – TUDOR Prince Date Chronograph (Automatic-Chrono Time)1999 – launch of the TUDOR Hydronaut collection2007 – international relaunch of the TUDOR brand with new products (Tudor Classic and Tudor Hydronaut II collections) and a new communications campaign2009 – presentation of the new range, with new TUDOR Hydronaut II, TUDOR Hydro1200, TUDOR Glamour and TUDOR Grantour. TUDOR begins collaboration with Porsche Motorsport, as "Timing Partner". Launch of the campaign: "Designed for Performance. Engineered for Elegance."2010 – launch of new TUDOR Heritage Chrono and TUDOR Glamour Double Date modelsIII. A NEW DIRECTIONFor TUDOR, 2009 marked a decisive turning point. This was the year the brand underwent a major repositioning, with a strong enhancement of its products' identity and its communications strategy, which was transposed into the competitive world of car racing at the side of none other than Porsche Motorsport, the entity that organizes and manages all competitions for Porsche racing cars.After having ridden for a number of years the wave of success created at its inception by acclaim from both the public and experts, TUDOR recently decided to assert more forcefully its own modern identity, based on the delicate balance between performance and elegance. This led to a totally new range of products and a relationship with the Stuttgart car manufacturing firm, rich in stylistic and technological synergies. As of 2009 and in the years to come, TUDOR would be the "Timing Partner" of Porsche Motorsport.TUDOR chose in particular to work with Porsche Motorsport on the Supercup, a race series in which the vehicles are all identical Porsche 911 GT3 Cup Type 997 cars, derived from the Porsche 911 Carrera.The target audience for TUDOR has always been identified as dynamic young people with confidence in their own choices, wishing to wear without pretension timepieces reflecting the style and high standards they set for themselves. Watches that evoke elegance, sports, style and performance. Men and women who have a comfortable, everyday relationship with beauty – a new generation that is capable of recognizing and appropriating objects whose performance transcends the *** concept of use, transforming them into emotional assets brimming with appeal.Turning now to the product itself. In 2009 there was a new addition to one of TUDOR's historic collections, the new Hydronaut II, a watch with a calendar and chronograph function, its details inspired by the nautical world. The new Hydro1200 – a highly technical model – is waterproof to a depth of 1,200 metres and is fitted with a valve which allows the gases that infiltrate the watch during diving to escape as the diver returns to the su***ce. In TUDOR's renewed repertoire, this range of distinctly sports watches was accompanied by a collection with a vintage feel, inspired by 1960s style and aptly called Glamour, consisting of classically elegant watches showing date and day and available with different dials, cases and bracelets.Last but not least is the Grantour collection of watches with a calendar and chronograph function, inspired by the Gran Turismo cars. The link with the motoring world is reflected in aesthetic details such as the black-lacquered steel bezel, reminiscent of on-board instrumentation, and the perforated leather straps giving it a sporty look. The connection is also underscored by the fact that TUDOR is now the "Timing Partner" of Porsche Motorsport and has a presence and visibility on the circuits where Porsche racing cars compete. This association is reinforced by TUDOR's 2010 models.The new watches presented by TUDOR at Baselworld 2010 deepen and expand the themes initiated in 2009, with emphasis on a combination of sophisticated elegance and high performance. As is frequently the case for objects imbued with emotional value, form and function are in perfect harmony. Thus, TUDOR perpetuates a style that is recognizable for its accessibility and sophistication.The functionality of a watch in no way detracts from its beauty and, at the same time, its aesthetics in no way diminishes its practicality. A delicate balance, in which aesthetic appeal and pleasure in use reflect the inte***ce of design and technology, is in keeping with the brand's finest tradition, reliability.With the new TUDOR Glamour Double Date and TUDOR Heritage Chrono, TUDOR puts theory into practice.TUDOR Glamour Double Date is a new interpretation of the classical elegance already seen last year in the TUDOR Glamour Date and TUDOR Glamour Date-Day models, a subtle revisiting of 1960s style. This sensual wristwatch for men boasts a round case of generous proportions (42 millimetres in diameter) and a double bezel. The dial, protected by a domed sapphire crystal, is distinctive with its unique open-work feuille hands and a calendar with a double window, surmounted by the current TUDOR shield logo in place of the 12 o'clock marker. Also noteworthy is the small seconds counter, worked in concentric circles and stamped with a stylized rose, inspired by the logo on earlier TUDOR models – a sophisticated note, and at the same time a sign of the brand's tradition of continuity. Case, bracelet and dial come in many variations. All the watches are waterproof to a depth of 100 metres and feature a self-winding mechanical movement.The TUDOR Heritage product line represents a further exploration of the most markedly sporty TUDOR collection. This began last year with the new Hydronaut II and Grantour series, and was directly inspired by the mythical TUDOR Oysterdate Chronograph of the 1970s. Stylistic and technical references to the world of car racing abound, from the aerodynamic proportions and decidedly aggressive design to the chronographic function (for measuring short intervals) and the features protecting the crown and pushers. The dial, which comes in grey on black or black on grey, plays on a three-dimensional effect with details in orange, and is complemented by the graduated rotatable bezel in anodized aluminium. The original graphics on the dial are inspired directly by the 1970s Oysterdate, while the case is adapted to present-day sports appeal bringing the diameter of the new TUDOR Heritage Chrono to 42 millimetres, compared to the 40 millimetres of the original.Innovation also triumphs in the bracelet which can be a steel bracelet with a safety clasp, or a unique fabric strap in black, grey and orange with a buckle inspired by the safety belts in the cars of the period.This new direction that TUDOR has taken since 2009 achieves consistency and continuity. The new models for 2010 and the years to come will only confirm this perfect balance of performance and elegance.More articles to follow on the Tudor brand in the coming weeks.Popularity: 26% [?]|||No Comment Rado Sintra Skeleton Automatic WatchPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 18th 2010From the relatively youthful Rado brand comes a new piece – the Rado Sintra Skeleton Automatic Limited Editon.Rado are experts in research, development and construction of the ultimate scratch-proof watchcase, research which has earned them over thirty patents in this field.  If sleek, shiny watches are not your thing then look away now…………The Rado Sintra Skeleton AutomaticThe curvy barrel shape of the Sintra lends itself perfectly to skeletonisation of its dial and for this model Rado have introduced a new skeleton movement – not just a cosmetic addition, it is also a C.O.S.C. certified chronometer.  Gold toning on the hands and indices add illumination to the dial and the contrast enlivens the piece beautifully. Around the back sapphire crystal shows off the movement to an equally pleasing effect.The Rado Sintra Skeleton Automatic is limited to 111 pieces worldwide.Popularity: 13% [?]|||No Comment The IWC Big Ingenieur Edition Zinédine ZidanePosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 17th 2010IWC present a new watch celebrating the legendary French footballer – the IWC Big Ingenieur Edition Zinédine Zidane.This is the second watch which celebrates the legendary French footballer, the first, released in 2008 featured the colours of the French National team i.e. blue dial, blue strap and was a pleasing enough piece, after all, the IWC Ingenieur is such a great design that it would require great effort to make a bad one.  However the 2010 model is a very tasty piece indeed featuring a dark brown dial highlighted with subtle flashes of red, in fact after a prolonged flurry of black dial editions released by most of the major players in the industry the use of brown provides a welcome hiatus -  you may remember that Panerai used this dial colour to great effect for the totally delectable Panerai Radiomir P.999 42mm Pink Gold edition.The IWC Big Ingenieur Edition Zinédine ZidaneAlthough this is a tribute piece the references to M. Zidane’s achievements are not overbearing, on the dial the number “10″ is highlighted in red – the shirt number he wore for his national team, and in tribute to the timing of his decisive goals scored against Brazil in the World Cup final of 1998 the numbers “27″ and “45″ appear in red in an otherwise white chapter ring, . The name Zinédine Zidane is engraved on the winding rotor viewable through the transparent sapphire-glass back which incidently also bears the number 10.  The piece features the IWC 51113 Calibre movement with 7 day power reserve, indicated on the dial at the 3 o’clock position.The IWC Big Ingenieur Edition Zinédine Zidane will be a limited editon release of 500 pieces.Popularity: 6% [?]|||No Comment Angular Momentum Jet BlackPosted byJohnny McElherroninMay 13th 2010Angular Momentum are never going to be the world’s biggest watch manufacturer. You won’t settle into your seat in your local restaurant, look around and notice that half of your fellow diners are sporting various examples of Angular Momentum watches. In fact, if you do own one, then it is quite unlikely that you will ever see someone wearing a similar piece.This is not because Angular Momentum makes bad watches, has a brand image problem or anything like that. Rather,  it has more to do with the way they go about their watch*** which has resulted in a new release from them being something of an occasion to fans of the brand.You see every watch from the Bern-based atelier is a unique hand-made piece, with production divided into the ‘Artisan’ and ‘Technical’ Timepiece collections. The watchmakers complete up to three hundred bespoke pieces each year.Recently Angular Momentum unveiled the latest addition to the Technical Timepiece collection, the Jet Black. Immediately it’s obvious that this is an unconventional watch to say the least. As is a common feature in this collection it dispenses with hands altogether and instead makes use of two revolving discs; completely black, except for one bright Email Lumineuse dot on the hours disc and white numerals for the minutes, both discs revolving beneath it’s black ‘medallion’ which is punctuated with twelve round hour apertures and curved minutes window.

Angular Momentum Jet Black

The Jet Black is available in a 42mm pvd coated stainless steel case with polished steel bezel which creates a nice effect. The movement is a hand-wound mechanical in-house calibre.As I mused earlier, Angular Momentum won’t become a household name anytime soon, but that’s not their motivation. As with most industries nowadays we have our globally recognised, heavily marketed brands and we do need small specialist manufactures who add their own intrigue to today’s super-commercialized world of watch***.My gratitude to Angular Momentum for providing the images.Popularity: 4% [?]|||No Comment The Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Shadow New YorkPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 10th 2010Girard-Perregaux release a new piece to add to their highly successful Worldtimer series, the ww.tc Shadow New York.  The manufacture has recently opened its first American boutique at 701 Madison Avenue New York and the new piece celebrates this historical event for the brand.The ww.tc Shadow was first presented in 2008 featuring an aesthetic upgrade with a striking black ceramic watchcase and a slight re-working of the case shape resulting in shortened strap lugs.  The GP03387 movement which powers the piece enables display of the twenty-four timezones, the date and flyback chronograph functions simultaneously.The Girard Perregaux ww.tc Shadow New YorkThe ww.tc collection is particularly versatile for watch manufacturers with regard to exclusive releases, with twenty-four locations to choose from, just highlight whichever city, town etc is connected with whatever you’re celebrating and there you go – limited editions made easy.You cannot blame Girard-Perregaux for revisiting their ww.tc again and again, it is without doubt one of the most legible and usable worldtimer dial designs around.  When the brand were partners with Ferrari, I desperately wanted to own one of the Worldtimer Ferrari F1 titanium models, not so much because of the connection with the iconic Italian marque, but because the red/white GMT ring design looked stunning and so much better than the blue/red “pepsi” GMT ring also available.  There was no other indication on the dial that this was a special edition other than the subtle use of the word Maranello highlighted in red.  The ww.tc Shadow New York  uses a similar red/white GMT ring design with the location of New York highlighted in red.The Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Shadow New York is an ultra-exclusive release of just 10 pieces.Popularity: 3% [?]|||No Comment Cabestan Scuderia Ferrari One – A new romance!Posted byJohnny McElherroninMay 7th 2010It has already been well covered in leading online watch blogs Perpetuelle and Hodinkee, but as I have a keen interest in the automotive as well as the horologic, it would be remiss for me to let this announcement pass by without marking it in the columns of The Watch Press.It is only just over three years since it was announced that Ferrari’s new partner in time was to be it’s illustrious compatriot and revered watch brand Panerai. This, it would have seemed, was a marriage made in heaven – the consummation of which, between two iconic Italian names after all, sure to create a lasting heritage and a long and mutually beneficial relationship. That beautiful babies would follow was never in doubt.

Panerai Ferrari Scuderia Chronograph

However, it turns out that there may have been an element of mongrel somewhere in the mix and the fruit borne of such royal loins would sadly possess few of the aesthetics one might expect from such parentage. After the predictable scramble in the first weeks and months of the joyous news, something peculiar happened. Within a year, new and unworn pieces had begun to find their way onto the internet, and at considerable discounts too. This was not a good omen, as one can neither buy an unused year-old Panerai nor Ferrari at any discount worthy of the name, never mind a discount of up to 50%! In fact, it is far more likely that you will have to get on a waiting list to enjoy the experience of ownership of either marque. Unthinkably, the Panerai Ferrari Scuderia and GranTurismo collections had lost their appeal – or worse, had been born without it in the first place!Of course only time will tell if these Panerai Ferrari watches really were so deserving of their fate, or if indeed the knock-down values at which they can be found today represents a fine opportunity for enthusiasts of either brand to acquire an appreciating piece of potential historical importance. It could happen. Twenty years down the line is too far away to rubbish that notion. However, based on the values of Ferrari’s previous Official Timekeeper collection, with Girard Perregaux, the chances of buying one now and hoping it would make a sound investment in the future are slim.I think that this is jointly down to the placement of these collections among the catalogues of Panerai or Ferrari. Just where were they supposed to fit in? Although sure to be fine watches, the Panerai-Ferrari pieces resembled no existing Panerai, and so without being released in Panerai fashion (typically not enough pieces to satisfy demand) as low-number limited editions within the Luminor or Radiomir collections, they didn’t find acceptance among Panreristi, excepting the completist collector.The same ‘fitting in’ argument applies to Ferrari as well. Apart from being a costly piece of merchandise among the hundreds of trinkets available from Ferrari, the watches did not have sufficient appeal to stand on their own, and I don’t know, I don’t own one, but if you owned a Ferrari car, would you feel the need to advertise it by wearing a slightly cheesy Ferrari branded watch? Wouldn’t the keyfob say more than the watch, in a much classier way? No, to me, if you need a watch to tell the world that your car’s a Ferrari, then there’s something wrong with your PR. Of course, if you don’t actually own a Ferrari but you’d like the world to think you do……. Ahh! That would be the catchment market perhaps?Mind you, owning a Ferrari is no indication of possessing class either I suppose! Money is not always a guarantee of good taste.And so, earlier this year the marriage was dissolved with little or no fuss.A time for reflection, a little remorse perhaps? Tears, I’m sure.Not bloody likely!!

Cabestan Scuderia Ferrari One

Because Ferrari have only invited eccentric watchmaker Cabestan straight into it’s boudoir for a little bit of canoodling between the sheets and already the result is breathtaking! For Cabestan are not so much the respectable society wife with a photo album spanning back decades and recounting great occasions. Rather, and especially when compared to the Panerai-Ferrari watches, Cabestan are like the new, younger, up-all-night party-mad girlfriend, whose photos are more likely to be seen on her Facebook wall, doing things Daddy wouldn’t approve of!Hang on a minute – that sounds much more fitting with the Ferrari image than the sober, well-heeled, socially upstanding madame! Because Ferraris don’t look ordinary – you don’t have to get close enough to it to see the badge, you know what it is from 500m! You are supposed to hurt your neck when you whip your head around at the bark of the exhausts as one plants it in a nearby street. They are a splash of noise and colour and only meant to be witnessed in a blurred instant.And so the same can only be said of Cabestan. The brand’s legend “l’art horologer pousse a l’extreme” does well to encapsulate the philosophy behind Jean-François Ruchonnet’s Cabestan marque. No purveyor of time-honoured traditional watch*** techniques, the creator is thinking about his watch*** in the same way as Enzo thought about his automobiles – differently to the rest.The first product of this partnership is the Scuderia Ferrari One. A fantastic, futuristic timepiece whose construction resembles no other watch, just like the car it represents. This watch, unlike it’s predecessors is as much a talking point as is the Ferrari itself, it surely represents the same ethos of pushing the boundaries of technology and exotic design and moreover, it is only intended for sale to clients of Ferrari – with a production of just 60 pieces, and at an expected €300,000 to boot! So I wouldn’t expect to find this one being knocked out at half price later this, or indeed any year soon.

The Cabestan Scuderia Ferrari One

Kyle at Perpetuelle has his reservations as to whether this watch will sell – even within the rarified catchment of the Ferrari owner, but I think that this one breaks with previous tie-ins. The Scuderia Ferrari One is as technically advanced, wild and unusual as the cars themselves, and I don’t think that it would be a hard sell to the already moneyed clientele as they are finalising their purchase of their new Ferrari at the dealership to have a Cabestan Scuderia Ferrari One brochure dangled in front of their eyes, particularly with the knowledge that with just 60 pieces in each colour it’s exclusivity is assured and it isn’t going to be found all over the internet next year!I have taken the following excerpt from the Cabestan press release to allow them to describe their Scuderia Ferrari One:“Cabestan creates an exclusive limited edition timepiece to celebrate Ferrari's racing historyGeneva, 5 May 2010 – Cabestan, the prestigious creator of exclusive Swiss timepieces, announces a partnership with Ferrari to jointly design and produce a limited edition luxury timepiece to celebrate the Prancing Horse's Formula 1 racing history.The Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan is deeply inspired by Ferrari race car technology and design. The result is a watch like no other seen before: 8 cubic centimetres of pure mechanical perfection and exacting design.Jean-François Ruchonnet, with 25 years of experience in creating exceptional timepieces, passionate about high performance cars and races, created this watch to embody the excitement, the innovation, the technology, the style and the attention to details of Ferrari.A magical collaboration: Ruchonnet & the Ferrari design team Starting with the revolutionary motor he developed to power the Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical, Ruchonnet created a high performance timepiece with an elegantly sleek and racy design coupled with the high tech materials found in Ferrari’s Formula 1 race cars. To reach deep into Ferrari DNA, Jean-François Ruchonnet teamed up with the Ferrari design team in Maranello, led by Design Director Flavio Manzoni.  The two worked together to identify elements in Ferrari’s Formula 1 race cars that would become the basic design components of the new Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan.  Every part had to serve a specific purpose. Every material was chosen to enhance performance.The case of the Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan embodies speed, power and aerodynamic perfection, and is made of a titanium alloy created for components of Ferrari Formula 1 cars. The single crystal, surpassing the edges of the case, enhances the distinctive visual lineage that is u***takably Ferrari. On the sides, a special magnesium alloy was used to create likenesses of race car wheels and the lug nuts that are emblematic of pit stop tire changes during Grand Prix races.By design, the revolutionary vertical gear-train of the motor is perfectly visible under the crystal, showcasing the large wheel inspired by the F1 world. The rotary drums, made of lightweight aluminium, are engraved with numbers that are the same as those on the instrument panels that provide real time data to Ferrari’s Formula 1 drivers. In the centre, there is a block of carbon composite material created by Ferrari for use in high-performance car parts where a high tensile strength, low weight ratio is required. Finally, the leather strap, recalls the Daytona leather seats of Ferrari automobiles.A high performance motor insideThe nucleus of the motor, engineered by renowned master watchmaker Eric Coudray, is its vertical tourbillon, an exceptional technology designed to compensate for variations in the amplitude of the balance due the effects of the Earth’s gravity.  To take the precision of this timepiece to a higher plane, the energy delivered to the movement is transmitted by a miniature chain and fusée that perfectly compensates the torque curve of the mainspring, using a 6-speed automatic transmission to deliver a constant force to the tourbillon.  The result is a mechanical watch engine that is amazingly accurate: ± 1 second per day.Ferrari is synonymous with excellence and innovation, and constantly strives for perfection also in the selection of its partners: Cabestan shares with Ferrari the same passion, excitement and performance. For Ferrari and Cabestan this is the beginning of a long term collaboration.The Scuderia Ferrari One by Cabestan, is an exceptional timepiece, perfectly embodying the Scudiera Ferrari DNA.Jean-François Ruchonnet, “Of all the timepieces I have created over the years, this one has a truly special meaning.  Ferrari is a mythical company, a company that builds dreams, a company that sets the standard in the car industry and in Formula 1 racing. I am honoured to be part of this exciting adventure with Cabestan and Ferrari.  Together we have created something enduring.”Popularity: 6% [?]|||No Comment Perrelet Chronograph TitaniumPosted bySylvia McElherroninMay 6th 2010The Titans, that powerful race of  giants from Greek Mythology have become headline news of late, thanks to the love-it-or-hate-it movie “Clash of the Titans” and the superior element Titanium, named after that troublesome family of rulers continues to feature highly in the world of watches…….sorry it’s a terrible link……however Perrelet’s latest addition to its Titanium Collection is a handsome piece indeed.Perrelet Chronograph TitaniumThe Perrelet Titanium Collection was launched in 2007 and is part of a rejuvenated portfolio which has gained the relaunched Perrelet brand a broader appeal and perhaps a younger client base.  The Perrelet Chronograph Titanium measures 43.5mm  and features a classy black/anthracite dial with luminous indices .  The Automatic P-091 / Dubois-Dépraz 4500 movement powers the  Chronograph Titanium, with the signature Perrelet decoration on the rotor viewable through the exhibition caseback.Popularity: 3% [?]|||No Comment The new MOLA 923M watchPosted byJohnny McElherroninMay 5th 2010Following several years of development, new watch brand MOLA have taken the wraps off their debut timepiece, the MOLA 923M.Berlin-based MOLA have drawn their inspiration from the exploits of pioneering deep sea explorers William Beebe and Otis Barton who, in 1934, took their bathyscape submersible to a depth of 923m (or 3028 feet), establishing a world record which set the benchmark for future deep sea research and exploration.The MOLA brand name itself is derived from the magnificent sunfish (latin Mola Mola) which can measure up to 3 metres across and weighs up to one tonne. Aware of the competitive market for well built divers watches, MOLA turned to the skills and expertise of designers from Glashütte SUG and have had the case and elements of the automatic movement ETA 2895-2 developed to exacting high standards.

MOLA 923M

With a pressure resistance requirement to at least 923 metres, MOLA first had the watch bench tested at 93 bar where it endured one hour subjected to the test. Following on from this, the watch was given it’s true baptism in waters off Portugal where the latitude and longitude of it’s 923m dive were recorded and can be found engraved on the rotor for posterity.The MOLA 923M is a good looking diver’s watch, nicely laid out with excellent legibility beneath it’s 4mm thick sapphire crystal, and well thought out details such as minutes being marked as opposed to hours, with an exception for the ’923m’ marked beneath the date window at the 20-minute position. It has a bold unidirectional rotating bezel whose flange is intermittently ridged and offers optimum grip through neoprene gloves. The bezel also features another detail I haven’t noticed before; apart from the superluminova filled ‘arrow’ at ‘north’ the other three indicators are sculpted out of the steel and only become illuminated when they rest over the luminous indices which are screwed into the actual housing. Very useful if the diver has become disoriented. Like I say, there are lots of little details and these help to distinguish the 923M from other fashionable divers hommages.The natural rubber strap is screw mounted through the lugs and has a folding deployant clasp. I’m not aware of an additional extended strap, but the screws make me think that straps are quite easily interchanged for wear over a diving suit. They seem to have covered most other things!

MOLA 923M with crown exposed

The MOLA 923M is an impressive and distinctive piece with it’s oversize left-positioned crown which is kept secured by a crown cap on swivel arm, and at 42mm across (48 including crown) it also has a fair amount of presence.Like most divers watches, it will probably never have to face it’s prescribed limitations. Most likely a watch to be worn when the diving is over and the only threat of getting wet is from the slip of a gin in the bar on the beach, or in the city!The MOLA 923M is manufactured in a choice of bead-blasted, satin or polished high grade stainless steel (316L) and overall, I think this is a more than respectable entry into the market by MOLA.Popularity: 30% [?]